• One trick to a fantastic pot, is a focal point, something taller for height.  Then frame it with a lower layer to fill out the pot and lastly, creeping plants to spill over the edges.
• Choose plants with similar water requirements and sun exposure.  Use the right plant right place rule.
• Position your container where it gets good air circulation, turn it periodically so it doesn’t stretch and grows evenly on all sides.
• Check the soil frequently for watering needs.  Mulch with moss or decorative rock to conserve moisture.
• Use a good potting soil and organic fertilizers from Fox Farms that last longer in the soil than chemical fertilizers. Refer to the directions on the package.

Join us and Fox Farms on April 28th and learn more about using organics and container gardening at Alpine Nursery from 10am-3pm.  We can help you create your own “pizzazz in a pot”- we’ll provide the soil (while supplies last). Special sales on that day on our new pots and plants of your choice.

We will also be having the Grand Re-Opening of The Pond Pad, water garden store, located at Alpine that weekend Sat. April 28 & Sun. April 29th, 2012.  For more information email: thepondpad@gmail.com

Creating

■Choose plants with various heights & bloom time

■ Include plants for larvae to feast upon

■ Butterflies prefer flowers with multi-cluster heads the best, but most any will do!

PERENNIALS:                               ANNUALS:

Achillea(Yarrow)*                                    Cosmos

Agastashe*                                           Heliotrope

Agapanthus                                            Licorice plant

Aquilegia(Columbine)                                Lobelia

Armeria(Thrift)                                         Marigold

Artichoke                                              Morning glory

Asclepias(Butterflyweed)                     Mustard/Cabbage

Aster                                                      Nasturtium

Astilbe                                                 SweetAlyssum

Chrysanthemum                                     SweetPea

Coreopsis                                              Snapdragon

Delphinium                                              Sunflower

Dianthus                                                    Verbena

Diascia                                                        Zinnia

Dicentra(BleedingHeart)

Digitalis(Foxglove)                                                    SHRUBS:

Dill*                                                          ButterflyBush         Calluna(Heather)

Echinacea (Coneflower)                                     Caryopteris(Bluebeard)

Erysimum(Wallflower)                                Ceanothus            Choisya(Mex.Orange)

Fennel *                                                             Clethra            Escallonia

Gaillardia                                                                  Hebe        Hibiscus

Geum                                                                  Lavatera        Lavender

Iberis (Candytuft)                                             Lilac          Mahonia (OregonGrape)

Liatris*                                                              Philadelphus (MockOrange)

Lupine                                                          Potentilla         Rhododendron

Monarda(BeeBalm)                                             Ribes(Currant)          Rose

Oregano*                                                              Rosemary         Spirea

Penstemon                                                                        Viburnum

Phlox                                                     

Rudbeckia

Salvia                                                  *Indicates plants with                                                              Leaves for caterpillars

Veronica                                     Adults feed on flower nectar.

Vinca                                                     

Wisteria

You can find these plants at Alpine Nursery and Landscape, home of The Pond Pad, in Puyallup, WA.

1. Select your site, somewhere you can enjoy it.  Avoid installing a pond on the low side of the yard or where water collects (water can get under the liner and cause problems). Be mindful of the surrounding landscape-leaves from trees and shrubs that may collect in your pond in the fall or evergreens that may shed year round.

2. Mark out your basin with a garden hose or landscape paint.  Dig your hole 2-3 feet deep.  Build a berm using the excavated soil and add more if needed. Compact your berm area well, it will sink over time.

3. Add an underlayment or some other protection down prior to adding your basin liner piece.  To figure out your liner:  Length=Length  (Depth x 2) + 2  Width=Width (Depth x 2)+2  Place your pump vault / canyon in the lowest end of your basin.  Insert your pump inside the vault and connect your plumbing and hose.  The hose then goes to the top of the berm to be connected to the weir or biological filter.

4. Fill the basin with larger cobble stones graduating to smaller gravel near the top.  Hide your pipe along the outer edge, burying it with soil, then cover with liner.  Stair step your berm with a curve to it for multiple views and for a more natural look.

5. Install the waterfall / stream liner piece and over lap it with the basin.  You should have at least a 6 inch rise to avoid the water wicking under the liner creating a leak. Install the weir or biological filter inside the top of the berm. Attach the liner to the weir, use silicone to seal the faceplate. Place larger rocks or boulders along the curves of the waterfall.

6. Place the rest of your rocks along the sides and edges of your waterfall and basin area. Start to fill your basin with water. Finish building your waterfall and use waterfall foam sealing around the rocks.  This allows the water to go over the rocks for more sound and better water flow.  

7. Adding decorative rocks along the edges and on top of the gravel in the basin- large stones add character and break up the look of the of small rock. When the basin is full, plug in your pump and continue to fill with water until it is entirely full.

8. Add soil to your berm and install plants along the edges. Use plants with staggered bloom times for year round enjoyment.

Let us help you install your own waterfall visit The Pond Pad at Alpine Nursery in Puyallup, WA.  Don’t want to install it your self?  Alpine Nursery & Landscape can do it for you.  Find us at www.alpinegrows.com

Providing a natural dinner plate for hummingbirds in your landscape is visually appealing and eco-friendly.

Hummingbirds feed while hovering and find plants with multiple flowers in open clusters most attractive. They also prefer nectar rich tubular shaped flowers in shades of red and crimson, but will also like orange,pink,purple,white and yellow blooms.

You should also provide a clean water source such as a bird bath or fill a “hummingbird feeder” with only water. They will also dine on suet and you can provide a feeder with sugar water.

Choose plants with staggered bloom times and various heights to attract hummingbirds into your yard. Hanging baskets and window boxes are great attractors as well as many trees, shrubs and vines.

We have many suggestions on plants that would look great in your landscape as well as appeal to our flying friends.

Please ask one of our sales associates for information and suggestions for plants best suited for your garden.

ANNUALS

Begonia Cosmos Fuschia Geranium Impatiens Lantana Nasturtium Nicotiana Petunia Salvia Scaevola Verbena Zinnia

PERENNIALS

Agastache  Bee Balm  Canna  Coral Bells  Columbine Crocosmia Delphinium Foxglove Hollyhock Gladious Lobelia Lungwort Lupine Phlox Monkey Flower Penstemon Salvias  Red Hot Poker  Rudbeckia Veronica

SHRUBS

Abelia  Abutilon Azalea  Arbutus  Butterfly Bush  Ceanothus  Currant  Cotoneaster  Elderberry Hibiscus Lilac Lavender Quince Rosemary Vitex Weigela Yucca

TREES

Citrus  Crabapple  Eucalyptus  Goldenchain Hawthorn Locust Redbud Silk Tree Tulip Tree Willow

VINES

Clematis  Honeysuckle  Morning Glory   Trumpet Vine  Wisteria    

1751879^thAveE, Puyallup,WA 98375

253.847.7078     www.alpinegrows.com

Trees 

Ash Fraxinus; Cedar; Cypress Cupressus; Douglas Fir; False Cypress Chamaecyparis; Fig; Fir Abies ; Ginkgo; Hawthorn; Magnolia;  Maples;  Oak; Olive; Palms; Pine; Redbud;  Redwood Sequoia; Silk Tree;  Spruce 

Shrubs

Abelia; Bamboo;  Barberry; Boxwood; Buckeye Aesculus; Butterfly Bush; Cinquefoil Potentilla; Coralberry;  Corokia; Cotoneaster; Currant; Daphne; Elaeagnus; Escallonia; Evergreen Huckleberry; Firethorn Pyracantha; Flowering Quince;  Heather; Heavenly Bamboo Nandina; Holly; Juniper; Kerria;  Lavender; Lilac; Mexican Orange; Oregon Grape; Plumbago; Rhododendron (not Azaleas);  Rockrose  Cistus(most); Rosemary;  Sage;  Salal; Snowberry; Spirea; St. Johnswort; Sumac; Sweet Box Sarcococca; Wax Myrtle; Wild Lilac  Ceanothus; Viburnum

Ground Covers / Vines

Beach Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis; Carpet Bugle Ajuga; Dwarf Plumbago; Ivy; Jasmine; Lithodora; Myrtle Vinca; Japanese SpurgePachysandra; Potato Vine; Rockcress Arabis;  Sweet Woodruff Galium odoratum; Wisteria 

Perennials / Bulbs / Grasses

Artemisia; Aster; Astilbe; Bachelors Button; Bear’s BreechAcanthus mollis; Bee Balm Monarda; Bellflower Campanula; Black-Eyed Susan; Bleeding Heart; Blue or Yellow Eyed Grass Sisyrinchium; Blue Fescue; CA Poppy; Calla Lily, Candytuft; Chrysanthemum; Columbine; Coneflower Echinacea; Coral Bells Huechera; Coreopsis; Cranesbill Geranium; Crocosmia; Crocus; Daffodil; Dahlia; Day Lily; Dead Nettle Lamium; Euphorbia; Euryops; Ferns; Flax Phormium; Fountain Grass Pennisetum;  Foxglove; Gailardia; Helleborus; Iris; Lamb’s Ears Stachys byzantina; Lily-of-the Nile Agapanthus; Lily Turf Liriope; Lupine; Miscanthus Grass; Mondo Grass; Monkey Flower; Nepeta Catnip / Catmint Nepeta; Oregano & Marjoram Origanum; Penstemon; Phlomis; Phlox; Pincushion Flower Scabiosa;  Poppy; Red-Hot Poker Kniphofia; Red Valerian Centhranthus ruber; Santolina; Saxifrage; Sedge Carex; Society GarlicTulbaghia violacea; SpeedwellVeronica; SquillScilla; Stipa Grass; Sweet Violet Viola odorata; Thrift Armeria; Thyme; Wallflower Erysimum; Yarrow Achillea

Annuals / Tender Plants

African Daisy; Agave; Aloe; Begonia, Tuberous; Calendula; Clarkia; Dusty Miller; Forget-me-not; Gazania; Helichrysum; Impatiens; Rose Campion Lychnis;Scaevola; Statice; Verbena

If you would like to learn more, stop by and one of our friendly and knowledgeable staff can help you make your selections.  Or you can email your questions to thepondpad@gmail.com.

                          How to Estimate Gallon Capacity

Circular Pond: R2 x 3.14 x Depth x 7.48 = Approx. Gal. R2= Radius x Radius (Radius is ½ of the total length)

Irregular /Rectangular Pond: Length x Width x Ave. Depth x 7.48= Approx.Gal.

Irregular Pond w/shelves: Length x Width x Depth x 7.48 x .66= Approx. Gal.

Streams: Length x Width x .25 (Depth) x 7.48= Approx.Gal.

How to Calculate Pond Liner Size.

Length= Length + (Depth x 2) + 2      Width= Width + (Depth x 2) + 2

Example: 8 x 10, 2′ deep L= 10′ + (2×2) + 2= 16′ W= 8′ + (2×2) + 2= 15′ 

                                    Electrical Conversions / Consumption

WATTS= Volts x Amps AMPS= Watts / Volts 1HP= 745.7 Watts

Approximate Electrical Cost to run a pump, etc.

Amps x Volts x 1000 x .10(KW per hour) x 24hrs x 30.4 days=$ / month

                           Aquatic Plant Calculations

Water Lilies: 1 per every 45-60 Sq F

Marginal Plants: 1 plant per every 3′-4′ shelf margin

Bog Plants: 1 plant for every 2′ of bog

                            Rock Calculations- For Gravel & Boulders

Boulders for Pond Basin:

Length x Width / 65 Tons of Boulders Use a 1:2:1 ratio

For every 1 Ton of 6”-12” rock; get 2 Tons of 12”-18” and 1 Ton of 18”-24” rock

½ Ton of 6”-12” of rock will cover 20 linear feet

1 Ton of 12”-18” of rock will cover 10 linear feet

1 Ton of 18”-24” rock will cover 5 linear feet

Boulders for Stream- For every 10′ of Stream, Use 3/4 Tons of rock using ratio above.

Boulders for Waterfall- Use 1 Ton of rock per each 3′-4′. Choose some larger stones for support, and some rocks with flat or interesting faces for the waterfall.

Gravel for Pond Basin- Use 40% total tons used for pond boulders calculations

Gravel for Streams- Use ½ Ton for every 10′ of stream

Pondless/ Disapearring Waterfall- Length x Width x Depth = Cubic feet

Use 90lbs of rock per each cubic foot; Use Ratio of: 40% 4”-6” Rock

(for the bottom of the basin) and 60% of 1 1/2” – 2” rock (for middle and top layer). Add decorative gravel / rock as a top dress.

These are guidelines to help you, always over estimate whenever possible. Any left over rock can be blended into your surrounding landscape.

www.alpinegrows.com         www.thepondpad.com

How Often Should I feed my  Koi & GoldFish?

Water Temperature = # Daily Feedings & Total Amt. to Feed (/body weight)

>50°F 0  0 do not feed                         50-55°F  1-2 times a week >1%

55 – 60°F 2 times a week 0.5%              60 – 65°F 3-4 times a week 1%

65 – 70°F 1 X day 1.5%                           70 – 75°F 2 X day 2%

75 – 80°F 3 X day 2.5%                           80 – 85°F 2 X day 1.5%

85 – 90°F 1 X day 1%                             <90°F 0  0 do not feed

We feed our fish to maximize and enhance their vibrant colors, growth, and longevity. Koi are omnivorous opportunistic feeders that need a balanced diet of protein and plant matter. Just don’t overfeed, it’s better to under feed than overfeed! Take out uneaten food before it spoils the water-adding to algae blooms.    

Healthy Water=Healthy Fish

What type of diet should I feed my fish?  

Koi are naturally bottom feeders, so feeding floating food is best. There are several types of food on the market-flakes, sticks or pellets. Feeding a mix of foods and cold water or wheatgerm based diets are great for the Pacific Northwest, where we have colder water.

Protein-helps increase growth & reproduction 31-42% crude protein Fats give fish energy, 2-3% crude fat. Carbohydrates offer an energy boost but also help fish process nutrients (cheerios and oatmeal). Vitamins and minerals regulate their metabolism and Vitamin C aids immunity.

How do I start to feed my fish in the Spring?

Start off with Cold water fish food / wheatgerm diet, or you can feed uncooked Quaker Oats or pre-soaked Cheerios. Feed sparingly to start to reduce the risk of illness- if scales beginning to raise or turn red, stop feeding and watch them. If the scales don’t go down, try treating with an antibacterial medication and move fish into a heated hospital tank.

If you have any questions please direct them to thepondpad@gmail.com

Kerri Bailey, owner of The Pond Pad, has been working with aquatic plants and herbs since 1989 and has been in the pond and horticulture industry since 1998.  She has a BS in Biology and is a Certified Herbalist. 

Water or aquatic plants are essential features for any pond or water garden. They add beauty and color softening the rocks, while providing shelter for fish. The bonus is that they also help keep your water clear and fish healthy. Water plants also compete with algae for nutrients and consume excess fish waste.  So you may want to add more plants to your pond to increase your filtration and pond appeal.

What are Water Plants?

So, what are water plants? They range from plants that tolerate wet feet and areas to plants that can be completely submerged in water. These plants can survive and thrive in wet areas year round (or naturally for their life cycle). Many common garden plants can be used in ponds or bogs that grown along the edges (margins) and stream areas. When plants are grown in water, they produce a different type of roots than soil grown plants. Aquatic roots are long and filamentous with feathery looking root hairs. These roots grow into the water for searching for nutrients, oxygen and are used to anchor themselves. Some plants float on the waters surface that have air bladders inside their leaves or stems to keep them buoyant with roots that grow completely submerged.

Water Plant Groups

Water plants are classified into four main groups: “Water Lilies and Lily-Like”, Marginals, Floaters and Submerged plants. Each plant group is dependent upon where they grow in the pond or how deep they can be submerged in water.

Hardy Water Lily

Water Lilies are the jewels of the pond.  The root or rhizome   grows in deep water (1′-4′) with stems that grow upward toward the water surface.  Leaves and flowers float on the water surface or slightly above.  Water lilies are divided into two types- Hardy and Tropical.  Hardy Water Lilies are hardy from zones 3-9 and can be grown just about anywhere in the country year round. They typically are day bloomers that are available in many colors with leaves and flowers that float on the waters surface.  Tropical Water Lilies need warmer

Tropical Water Lily

temperatures (above 65ºF) and are usually treated as annuals or winterized inside.  They come in vibrant bloom colors with leaves and flowers that stand out above the waters surface. They are either day or night blooming. Check your zone at: http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/

Lily-Like Aquatics  Grow similarly to hardy water lilies but have smaller leaves and flowers, and grow in shallower water depths.  They are very versatile working well in containers and in small ponds.  The lily-likes vary in leaf size and shape, temperature hardiness and flower form.

Marginals

Marginal Plants  A very large group of plants that grow on the margins of ponds, bogs or stream edges.  They are grouped as hardy or tropical- hardy plants survive below zone 9  and tropicals survive above zone 9.  Iris & Cattails are hardy marginals and Taro & Papyrus are tropical marginals. Some marginals can survive in wet soil to a few inches of water depth, and others can grow deeper (up to a foot of water).

Floating Plants or Floaters  Plants that float on the waters surface with their roots submerged into the water.  Their leaves have air bladders that keep them buoyant.  Most are annuals ( Water Hyacinths, Water Lettuce) some are hardy (Azolla, Frogbit)

Submerged Plants  What most people think of as “water weeds”.  They are often referred to as “oxygenators” which is misleading, as all water plants consume and produce oxygen. These plants are found under the water surface either freely floating or anchoring themselves to the  bottom.  At times they may grow at the waters surface or out of the water.  Most have insignificant flowers, others have delicate blooms.  Many are considered “noxious weeds” so check the list to see what you can grow in your state http://plants.usda.gov/java/noxious?rptType=Federal

Hornwort

WA State see:  http://www.nwcb.wa.gov/ab_weedlaw.htm

Learn more about water plants at The Pond Pad located inside Alpine Nursery in Puyallup, WA or email at:  thepondpad@gmail.com

Kerri Bailey, owner of The Pond Pad, has been working with aquatic plants and herbs since 1989 and has been in the pond and horticulture industry since 1998.  She has a BS in Biology and is a Certified Herbalist.

Colorado Peach

Hardy Water Lilies are perennials that come back each spring year after year and go dormant in late fall.  They can live for several years up to 20 years or more, provided they are properly cared for.

Placement:  Full sun, up to 6 hours of sun a day for abundant blooms, although there are a few varieties that can take less sun (Burgundy & Dark Red colored varieties can fade in too much sun).  Water lilies do best in moving water that is oxygenated by a pump, stagnant water may cause them to rot out.  Avoid water splashing on the leaves, and heavy wind & wave action that causes leaves to pull away from stems.

Water Depth: Water lilies are submerged plants- the roots need to be in the water with the

Joey Tomocik

leaves floating on the top of the water.  The roots or pot should be submerged at least in a foot of water up to 2.5′ / 3′. Dwarf varieties can be in less water, the larger ones should be grown in deeper water.  In natural ponds that have stiller water, water lilies can grow in up to 6′ water depth.  If lilies are planted too deep, the stems can break away from the rhizome (tuber).

Fertilizing: Fertilize your water lilies around April or May, monthly until August/September. Do not fertilize your plants when they are dormant and follow the directions on the package.  Use only aquatic fertilizer tablets- not fertilizer meant for soil plants- you can get algae blooms and possibly kill your fish.  You don’t have to fertilize them if you have a heavy fish load, the fish waste turns into nutrients for the plants to absorb.  If your lilies aren’t blooming, they may need to be divided, re-potted or need fertilizer.

Pink Fire Opal

Dividing: Divide mature plants when overcrowded, or have out grown their pot.  In warmer areas, divide your lilies more often, cooler areas divide less often (shorter growing seasons) or every 3-4 years in late spring.  If you clean out your pond, that would be a great time to deal with your aquatic plants-dividing, fertilizing, cutting back foliage, etc. Water Lilies planted directly into the pond may need to be divided every 2-3 years as they will grow faster than they will potted.  A divided water lily needs at least 6 weeks of good growing weather in order to survive winter.  Use a sharp, clean knife and cut 4″-5″ of rhizome on medium to large types and 2″-3″ pieces on smaller types.  Make sure there is at least 1-2 side eyes per division.

Planting:Plant your water lily directly into the pond, or submerge a potted lily in 1′-3′ of

Water Lily Tuber

water depth.  Do not use a planting mix, potting soil or compost intended for soil plants.  These mixes use a lot of oxygen as they break down and can cause your tuber to rot or cause algae blooms.  Use an inert medium- top soil, sandy loam, gravel or an aquatic plant “soil”.   See my blog on Planting Hardy Water Lilies for more details.

Pest Control:  Water lilies get few pests & diseases.  Aphids can be a problem and can spread quickly.  Never use a pesticide on any pond plant that is not labeled safe for aquatic life- fish are very sensitive!  A natural method is to coat the leaves of the lily infected with aphids with “Diatomaceous Earth”or DE- a whitish powder make up the shells of microscopic organisms called diatoms (avoid breathing in the dust particles).

Texas Dawn

The sharp edges of the diatoms cut the insects and suffocate them.  Wait a day and spray off your lily pads with a gentle stream from a garden hose.  You may have to repeat this several times until they are gone.  The fish may eat some of the aphids for you and the DE will not harm fish.  Another potential problem is root rot, which usually happens to potted lilies.

Dead Heading / Leaf Care: Each water lily bloom lasts up to 5 days or so, opening and closing each day until it expires. You can cut spent flowers to stimulate more blooms and to keep your lilies tidy.   Dead or ugly leaves can be trimmed as needed.  Do not cut the “indicator” leaves that grow out from the base of the tuber, they tell the plant when to grow in the spring.

If you have any questions email at: thepondpad@gmail.com or stop by The Pond Pad at Alpine Nursery.  Kerri Bailey, owner,  has been working with aquatic plants since 1989 and in the horticulture & pond industry since 1998.  She has  a BS in Biology and is a Certified Herbalist.  See her other blogs on Planting Hardy Lilies and  Water Lily Facts.

Arc-en-Ciel

Hardy Water Lilies come in generally 2 forms- bare root tubers or already growing in a pot (potted).

To Pot or Not To Pot  How you choose to pot or plant your lily depends upon where they will be grown.  For a pre-formed pond, patio pot / whiskey barrel, or ponds with out rocks inside of it, you probably want to plant your lily into a container.  If you have more of a natural pond with rocks and gravel you may choose to plant your water lily directly into the gravel without a pot.  Remember that the roots are what is absorbing the nutrients in the pond so keeping them in pots doesn’t really do them justice, but the choice is yours.

Planting  Bare Root Water Lilies

1. Use a container with holes, like this planting basket. There are also fabric pots or you can use a black nursery pot. Bare root water lilies may shock a bit after planting, don’t worry, they will come back when the weather warms.
2. Place soil-either a sandy loam mix, topsoil or aquatic planting mix (my least favorite, it can float and looks like kitty litter).  Place a couple of fertilizer tablets in the corners of the pot.  Make a slight mound and gently place tuber on top, spreading the roots out.  If you have fish you may not need to fertilize your lilies, they may feed your plants enough for adequate blooms.
   
3. Cover the roots and tuber with soil and top dress with gravel.  Do not completely cover the crown (top) of the tuber.  Keep leaf stems exposed and any small indicator leaves (these are important, they tell the lily when to growing, only prune these if they are damaged)
   
4. Water thoroughly, allow debris to drain before putting into the pond. Submerge the pot to a water depth of 1′ – 2.5′/3′. Plants can also be planted directly into the gravel- wash off soil from roots and then plant.

If you have any any questions please email at:

thepondpad@gmail.com  and see my other blog on Water Lily Care.  You can also stop by and see me at The Pond Pad at Alpine Nursery (253) 332-2158.

Kerri Bailey, owner of The Pond Pad, has been working with Aquatic Plants since 1989 and has worked in the horticulture & pond industry since 1998.  She has a BS in Biology and is a Certified Herbalist.